Is Scale Inaccuracy a Cardinal Sin?

Is scale inaccuracy a cardinal sin?

3D Printing has limits, some quite strict limits, I'd like to add; Shapeways' most detailed material (Frosted Ultra Detail) has a lower detail limit of 0.1mm, yet in N gauge I've struggled to model the wheel springs underneath the Metropolitan Twin Brake Van – I had to resort to stepping the springs into the sides to give the illusion of a multi-layered object.

A fine solution to a pervasive problem...

Probably not the best example given I've added no primer, but if you squint...

It's not just simple resolution either, definition is also a problem.  The Shapeways minimum detail level of 0.1mm is actually made up of four 0.025mm laser pixels in the printer; this is to ensure the position of any details that small will be reasonably accurate, which they are.  However, this means that if you go this small (as anyone has to if they deign to model N gauge), there is a 25% directional variation in the X and Y axes (god forbid both!).  The upshot is that your “super-fine detail” will often have poor definition, giving it an almost abraded look; to make matters worse, Shapeways uses Netfabb Professional to nest the models in the most efficient way possible, which will allow the most models into any one printing operation – This means your magnum opus could be printed at all kinds of unfathomable angles!

Looks like it hit a sandpaper block in a hurricane!

Let me introduce you to what is on the left:  That is a mid-2000s model of a Class 08 from Graham Farish.  It clearly displays all the hallmarks of the early chinese production (apart from the split gears, thank god!); This one was evidently designed in Poole and thus can trace it's roots back into the 90s at least.  The major manufacturers in N, Peco and Grafar, had some pretty low standards of detail compared to what even Hornby was capable of at the time, a fact I can verify by way of a 2005 Hornby Catalogue.  N gauge at the time was only slightly better than what FUD is capable of today, as can be examined below:

Circa 2005 I believe, got it as a birthday gift :) 

To examine models, I like to ask “Could this model be blown up to full size and be switched with the original for a few days before being noticed?”

Lettering is in an examplary state for the time, but as you'll see in a minute, still a bit wibbly compared to modern efforts

A bit wide, perhaps,  though if gave it a suitably proportioned etched grille, all but the most eagle-eyed would give the nod

Grafar ought to be proud for making it's 08s look like this in N!

What can be ascertained from an inspection?  Pretty much all moulded handrails with not a wire in sight, no cab glazing, it's clear that most of the effort was focussed on the lettering and other lines (which are still a bit too watercolour for my taste).  A folorn state when compared to the OO gauge models of the time, and sadder yet when you consider how even wagons have progressed in this day and age:

Lettering is razor-sharp even when weathered

Rail-Thin details all over from 2013

Underframe Pr0n :D

Yet in spite of all this progress, the Grafar 08 still has the basic shape of an 08 right, there's very few things about it that can't be fixed by detail etches and added handrails; even advances in adhesive technology such as the glue 'n' glaze can provide a superbly simple solution to it's window-related ills.  I think our attitude towards N gauge back then speaks less about the potential for psychotic levels of detail and more about the amount of effort we'd like to put into it, not to mention the comparison point of OO gauge we had back then.  If it weren't for Grafar moving its manufacturing to China and subsequently re-invigorating their models in a big way, N gauge would have indeed become a fairly large cult gauge, full of fanatical wizards etching and bending and soldering their way to victory.

Today, we've reached the point where unless you're doing a strict time and place – and thus need to re-number rolling stock or add appropriate dirt (such as china clay operations) – chances are an off-the-shelf model can be plonked on your track as-is and look great.  The kits of today are excellently appointed too, and with advances in design and tooling, they're not hernia-inducingly hard to get right.  The main case for improving detail is in the 3D Printing sector, as well as the material properties to make a decent chassis.  Let us further peruse The Metro Twin Brake Van:

Details are a bit dulled by the black paint, makes me sad indeed :(

A clear progression from right to left, though my Metro Twin Brake seems to have sprouted fluff whilst in storage!

If anything, comparing 3D Printing to these models has made me realize something about my craft:  with 3D printing in it's current state, it is essential it looks good out of the box – the fragility of these models is easy to underestimate if you're it's daddy and you're handling it like a baby, but real modellers won't care to be so careful.  The 08 has superior definition to the Metro Brake, of that we can be sure.  The details are also cast in metal so it's far more durable, and therefore more receptive to re-working.  If you play the cards right, you could probably turn this 08 into a reasonable representation of the real thing, as long as no recent Grafar models pull up alongside, of course!

So is it right to expect surgical precision?  Could an obsession over micrometres really have spelled the end of an entire scale?  If you ask me, it all depends on context:  Ask a Shapeways modeller to re-create the modern Grafar 08 and... he's fled!  Too much in the way of technical hurdles and that's before we even attempt to recreate the etched ladders and fitted handrails.  Perhaps this is why 3D Printing is the preserve of the most obscure wagons - wagons that only exist in highly-researched books on quirky and largely forgotten avenues of railway history.  An admirable intention, to effectively catalogue all of our railway's forgotten history in model form, but if you want a hand at this yourself, I recommend sticking to OO where you can fall back on WSF (Polyamide to other companies) and still have a reasonable amount of detail; N gauge 3D Printed rolling stock has yet to come of age, but I'm confident it will in the next 5 years.

Consider the Madder Valley Railway (Vid here), it's models grind and groan as they traverse the layout, and the style seems to make no sense with Beyer Peacock locomotives hauling distinctly American coaches; but it is a true survivor among layouts, it's visual appeal has failed to be quenched even as it's flock materials fade in colour and the wheels look comically disproportionate by modern standards.  This is how we ought to treat the hobby, not as an egotistical scoreboard, but to approach it with the aim to create an atmosphere; to immerse the viewer in a frozen sliver of time, or even just to amuse them with quirky cameos or even mechanical functions!

As for the debacle over “The end of N”, it was right to condemn Grafar for a lack of progress; you start a company to pool resources, to purchase industrial tools and manpower to surpass what an individual modeller can be expected to achieve.  The old Grafar 08 strikes me as a model that could have, potentially, been cast by an enterprising modeller in whitemetal.  My point is that we should not let detail take hold of us like money does to some people, because it produces the exact same sad result – a loss of humanity accompanied by a loss of compassion (we all know the rivet counters, do we not?  Who likes their company?  Silence...)

To follow your heart, is it worth losing your mind?

SLA 3D Printer Project Log 12: Dropping the Hammer on lack of construction

You know that feeling when you've finally been liberated to make real progress on something?  In a sea of drudgery and busy-bodying in the real world, this is a shot of Dopamine straight to the brain.  This is even more so when you've been procrastinating something for so long that spiders the size of your big toe have set up ambush positions in your cooking utensils (as happened to me when I cleared out my shed; yes, my spine is Petri Jelly, no need to remind me...  *sigh*).

Nails, the classic solution for design ineptitude - that or excessive amounts of glue and filler!

The rush of finally taking action is, as we all know, the best time to find out we've been imbeciles – as I found out when I discovered my top vent had no tabs for locating the parts together!  I had basically expected the builder to be able to glue these together against gravity no matter which way up the join was being made.  Rest assured this will be fixed in the final 1.0 release, but for now, we can get busy with a Pin Vice (Check out the review here!).

If you think this is laborious, try correcting a hammer drill gone haywire...

As I examined the Z carriage to which the Build Bed is mounted to, I couldn't help but notice that there was a slight warp, a horrifying scenario for a part absolutely dependent on being straight and true!  At risk of making the Z carriage too heavy for the Stepper Motors, I knocked together a barn-door solution on a whim...  Unprofessionalism?  What is this, the Intel FABs?

Spare Extrusions fixed in place with Stud-Locked Nuts and Bolts; a nice solution, though I'd be lying if I said I wasn't concerned for strain on the Z motors.

Among the bits that I bought in a project-buying frenzy were some black, chunky tapes with a faint magnetic field.  These are for mounting the UV-Reactive Acrylic Window Panels.  TBH I'm a little worried about their powers of retention given that most ferrous things are barely attracted to them, but at least my Hard Disks are safe :)

Pro-Tip for those doing this:  Dampen the plywood surface where the ends of the tape meet, apply cyano, then affix.  Safeguard against peeling ;)

One final note is how we can expect the panels to be mounted; I've found some Slim T-Nuts for the extrusions that don't need to be slid in before the panel is aligned, so I can mount the panels after the frame is built – you can't imagine how much rage this will save!  On the downside, I've missed out on the chance to become the next Francis...

This thing locks against the extrusion when tightened, so no worries about it spinning in situ.

Locking in action, shouldn't too hard to remove them again.

Stay Productive...

Tawe's Testing: The Maplin Pin Vice Set Review

Here it is, Review the 1^st, and it's a fairly ubiquitous tool for those who work with resin and etched body kits – the Pin Vice.  Maplin furnishes the reviewer with this device, being of all-metal construction and coming with a kit of microscopic drill bits, it seems we have been spoiled at first glance.

Even the Maplin lettering looks neat, no budget aesthetic here!

Upon inspection the unit shows great promise – The aforementioned all-metal construction lending a feel of dependability that is essential in any respectable tool, the knurled handles adding to the industrial ergonomics.  There is even a pen clip on upper side of the body to shove it into a pocket pouch, although doing this with a 0.45mm handrail-sized bit installed seems like asking for a punctured lung!  The collar is also suitably knurled and seems to have a snug hold on the chuck, though becomes quite irrelevant, as shall be explained in good time.

Odd though it is, the asymmetric nature of the chuck did nothing to prevent good use :)

There's a lot to like initially about this set, only costing a nice round £9.99 (leaving a penny for the copper box!); giving you a 20-piece bit set to pick from, ranging from the human-sized 1.5mm bits to bits so absurdly thin you could bend them with your breath.  Once I'd got a 1.2mm bit in, and gotten stuck into some plywood, the vice was very stable and made light work of drilling pilot holes 20mm down, making drilling parallel to the plys a much calmer experience than you'd expect, with no fear of splitting the wood.  It is here, though, that a rotating top would be highly appreciated, especially when you need to put some real pressure down.

The Pin Vice on test, looking quite at home burrowing into some 6mm plywood forming the top panel of my SLA 3D Printer.  Yeah, that chunk of aluminium and keys is my keyboard, I take my PC equipment very seriously indeed...

And this is only where the issues start.  Chief among the problems is probably the one thing that makes this set both cheap and versatile – the chuck; I do like the idea of not having to exchange chucks whilst reaming out different holes, if only for the sake of sheer expediency, however, if removing the bit becomes like playing tug-of-war with a German Shepard in an exosuit, that's where I draw a line the size of a country border.  Upon removing the chuck, you'll find a hexagonal end not unlike those found on interchangeable screwdrivers; sadly, hopes of being able to use a more comfortable handle are quickly dashed upon finding the end flopping hopelessly in the socket (you might argue that this arrangement has no collar, and you'd be right, but with a chuck as clenching as this, I don't think that's a major loss).

Not quite a decent fit, don't know why I expected this brassy metal to be magnetic, but there you go.

Then there's the Bit Box.  The bits themselves are decent, I've seen worse tools, but the box they came in seems like it was designed to aid in sapping POW morale; it's bad enough that there's no clips holding the bits into place, but whoever made the lid cling to the tray like a kitten to your jumper ought not to become a politician, as this design error will surely be his opponent's dream trump card!  As if the lid was not okay with just being clingy, it's not immediately apparent how it opens, and the best I've come up with is to use a Philips screwdriver to (valium in hand) prise it open.  Not a good job here, especially after the promise shown by the Pin Vice itself.

Quite a selection, even if they look like they don't damn well behave themselves!

The most precise and careful way I found of getting into the box, depends on how steady your hands are.

Since this is my first review, I ought to detail how my review scores work.  First off is Detail, pretty much the objective of out hobby, so it makes 30% of the score.  Quality is a close second, also taking 30%, since we all want a model that'll last, right?  Function takes 25%, maybe a little small, but if this is poor at least it can be made into a static prop.  Finally Value is at 15%, value is always welcome, but I reckon most would shell out for quality in other regards, wouldn't you?  The overall score is calculated with these in proportion, with each point being 5%, so Detail is 6 as is Quality, Function is 5 and Value is 3; the overall score is consequently out of 20.

So my summation of all this goes thus:

Detail 3/6

Probably a little strange that a tool gets a detail score, even so, in my mind it represents how much attention was paid to little additions that increase comfort, functionality, ease of use, etc.  This is a fairly average example since the pen clip is nice as are the knurled handles, but it could have done with more.

Quality 3/6

Another average score, the Pin Vice itself being worthy of a 4/6, and the Bit Box taking 2/6, this makes a mean of 3/6.  Pity.

Function 4/5

The Pin Vice works very well, as do the included bits, only that lid on the Bit Box lets it all down with it's steadfast refusal to part without showering you with swarf-laden fletchettes!

Value 2/3

While £9.99 seems expensive in this day and age, there's no getting away from the actual value proposition here; some may argue that you can get better at Poundland and eBay, but with both you take a chance – Poundland tools are usually only good when they are simple things like sanding blocks and hammers, while eBay deprives the customer of a direct, tactile assessment of the product.

Overall 12/20

Only slightly above average, not going to be used in Hornby's R&D Benches anytime soon like similar offerings from proper hobby suppliers, so it's probably best bought in the same manner I did – for want of a quick tool for pilot holes.

In other words, I'd recommend something proper such as this Expo Drills & Tools Pin Vice - £5 at a model show, several chucks made out of proper tool steel, and a more versatile handle to boot.

Charlie, I think we're on the wrong branch... A confessional

As I write this on the train to work for the first time (coming up in the world ;) ), I'd like to reflect on the possible directions this blog could take; for the 5 people who know this place exists, anyway.

As you are no doubt aware, my SLA 3D Printer is taking a god-awfully long time to come to life, partially because of life concerns (my main PC upgrades being a prime example), but nonetheless, i'm beginning construction proper.  The frame members are complete, ready to join and looking pretty good considering this is my first time with an angle grinder!  The Plywood Panels are ready to be assembled as required and accept paint.

Another thing that constantly nags my attention is the fact the virtually no progress has been made on the Shapeways side of Tawe TMD; there are several reasons for this, but the main offenders are:

1. Material Properties – WSF (polyamide) is tough enough for a model railway wagon chassis, but produces lesser detail than early 2000s N gauge models, I.e, the period where it was seriously mooted that this scale was dying!  FUD is acceptable, but far too brittle in tests, with W Irons and springs falling off only enough force to bruise a gnat.
2. Service – Shapeways is under heavy strain right now, it's a new startup riding a technology that is a newborn amongst giants.  These are not a good combination for rapid delivery and processing, with minor changes in models taking 3 weeks to be delivered and a further week for testing and modification.
3. Research – Diagrams of the ancient wagons I intend to populate my Shapeways store with are hard to come by, and when I do finally find them, they’re often fuzzy with poor detail.

1) is unavoidable for the time being, we'll need newer technologies to print more useable materials before I can seriously consider making entire N gauge wagons (chassis included!) in a 3D Printer. 2) is up to Shapeways to sort out, or If another company can sort that out I'd love to hear about them :).  3) is a bitch, but not entirely unsolvable in many cases.  With regards to my current 3D printed wagons (the Metro Brake and the Rigid 8), I'm sorry to say that these wagons are suspended for the time being, while it's possible to make decently detailed models, 3D Printing really has to catch up strength-wise before I can consider selling them as a serious product.  I may consider a hybrid approach of etches and 3D prints, as EtchedPixels seems to be getting on quite well with, but I'll need to learn my way around brass etching first and my first attempts are a stain on my modelling career that shall never be spoken of again.

Somewhere, Bob Symes weeps for future generations...

In other news, I will be visiting the British Festival of Railway Modelling in Doncaster on the 7^th of February.  I've never been to either Doncaster or this particular show, so it ought to be fun on both counts.  This neatly brings me to another announcement – There shall be reviews on this blog!  Oh yes, the time has come.  Given that I now work hours slightly worse than 9-5 (8-6, though I get an hour's lunch in which to write features, or bilge if you refer my personal blog), I'll probably examine smaller products for more intimate reviews; things like whitemetal kits, brass kits, 3D Printed wagons and static objects.  I'm itching to sample the state of our hobby's 3D printed items firsthand, even the best pages don't tell you much about things like ergonomics (for things like handles), surface quality and ease of construction.

As for features, I'm not sure they'll come to prominence for a while.  I am only 23 in a hobby dominated by retirees, retirees who can drop the hammer and call me out with their all-spanning experience!  That's a funny thing about Railway Modelling, it's probably the only industry I know of where you can survive by being stubbornly old fashioned - many business are still able to survive on mail order alone, Dean Sidings being a prime example, and their Pug conversion for the hornby 0-4-0 got a feature in Parker's Guide (a smashing modelling tips publication from Hornby Magazine).  My thoughts are along the lines of ideas about the state of the industry and where we can go from here, and some things damn well need to be dragged into the 21^st Century!

In spite of the ageing demographics our the hobby, I am confident that it will survive, if only because Heritage Lines remain National Treasures somewhere between Stephen Fry and Spitfires.  Despite all the dreadful rhetoric of the “breakdown of family values”, there are still a great many people not quite so blemished, and can thus appreciate there's more to life than power over others.  I picked up a leaflet about that National Model Railway Museum at Ashford at a show, and I can understand why people may be worried by the line “think about the future of our hobby”, but rather than see terminal decline, I see the opposite – I see people looking out for us and ensuring we don't fade into history like a thief in the night.  In short, I see...  Immortality...

Okay, maybe a little too high on myself there...

SLA 3D Printer Project Log 11.5: I hope paint don't watch me dry...

A quick update of the progress of my Printer:

• Tallied up the parts needed and found I still had a great many detail parts to account for; frustrating, no?
• Also need to get the Resin Basin lased - Is there some kind of standard way to mark a part of a drawing to indicate that it's scrap?  That would save the end user having to adjust for various laser cutters as he shops around the suppliers.

I managed to run a test using spray paint on the RAMPS mount, it's just standard DIY spray paint from Wickes (Satin White, looks glossier than I had imagined, then again I really ought to use primer):

Not too bad, but still got a lot to learn about spray painting.

It seems my overzealous application has soaked into the wood - a good start to preventing water ingress, but probably indicates that the two 400ml cans I bought will run out before the job is done.

I began the experiment with a teaspoon-full of tap water in the centre of the painted face:

It's being supported on top, a good start!

The reason I want to paint the panels is simple - I may not have the luxury of storing this printer in my house, which means it must either be placed in a garden shed or in storage, neither of which can be guaranteed to be completely dry.  Upon examining the part 1 hour and 30 mins later (3x the duration I had planned!), I was quite pleased to see this:

Same size, same shape - no water ingress!

As for constructing the frame itself, I plan to have assembled the Z Carriage, External Panels and Resin Basin before I dive into it, since their dimensions cannot be certain until they are fully assembled; using thread-lock is a must with the frame (it bears the weight, and we *cannot* allow the projector to be vibrated out of alignment), and I'd rather make things fit before the thread-lock sets.

Stay Experimental.